The Story of Martin Kayamba (II)

By Martin Kayamba, 1935

My Visit to England

Since 1924 there had been a rumour in East Africa about the proposed federation of the East African Territories, i.e. Kenya Colony, Uganda Protectorate and Tanganyika Territory. The Ormsby-Gore Commission was sent out in 1924. It toured through the East African Territories and eventually made its report on the matter. The Hilton- Young Commission was sent out to East Africa in 1927 on the same question and made its report, as the result of which the Joint Committee on Closer Union of the East African Territories was appointed in England, composed of members of the Houses of Lords and Commons, to make further inquiry into the matter. The Joint Committee required witnesses to be sent to England to give evidence before the Committee on the subject, and for the first time in the history of the British Empire, and East Africa in particular, three Africans were required from each of the three territories of East Africa, i.e. Kenya, Uganda and Tanganyika Territory, to go to England to give evidence to the Honourable Committee, on behalf of ten million natives inhabiting these territories. The following were selected to represent Tanganyika: Chief Makwaiya, K.M., of Shinyanga, Mwami Lwamugira, K.M., of Bukoba, Mr. H. M. T. Kayamba of Tanga (the writer).

The Tanganyika African delegates left Dar-es-Salaam by S.S. Francisco Crispi on 50th March, 1931, together with P. E. Mitchell, Esq., M.C., Secretary for Native Affairs, and 0. Guise- Williams, Esq., District Officer. Chief Makwaiya was accompanied by his son-in-law, Makoni.

Two of us were Christians and two Mohammedans. Christians have no difficulty in sailing by European steamers and to European countries, as they can eat any food cooked for European tables. But there was a small point to dear regarding the food of our Mohammedan colleagues. Chief Makwaiya and Makoni are staunch Mohammedans and were very particular about food. Mr. Mitchell arranged with the District Commissioner at Mombasa for Chief Makwaya to consult with Sir Ali bin Salim, K.B.E., C.M.G., of Mombasa in order to remove the scruple from his mind about food.

On 51st March we arrived at Mombasa; the first thing we did was to drive by taxi to the District Commissioner to see Sir Ali bin Salim. The District Commissioner took us to Sir Ali bin Salim, who kindly invited us into his office. After the matter had been explained to him, he told Chief Makwaiya that Mohammedans are not forbidden by their religion to eat food cooked by Christians or meat of animals killed by Christians or Jews, because Christians have the Gospel (Injili) and Jews have the Deuteronomy (Torati). Both these books come from ‘God. He had been to England himself for one year and during that period ate the same food which Europeans ate. The only meat which a Mohammedan is forbidden to eat is pork, and he strongly warned Chief Makwaiya that they should not touch it. In confirmation of what he had said he was willing to come on board S.S. Francisco Crispi to lunch with us. We were very pleased to invite him to lunch. At 12 noon he arrived on board and had lunch with us. At 4 p.m. he kindly sent his car to take us round Mombasa Island, and we enjoyed the trip very much. Sir Ali bin Salim is famous for his hospitality and charity to all races in Kenya Colony.

Kenya Native delegates embarked on board the steamer on 1st April. Arab delegates also embarked on the same day. Our steamer left Mombasa at 12,50 p.m. for Kismayu. We left Kismayu at 2.50 the same day and arrived at Mogadishu at 7.50 a.m. on 5rd April Good Friday. We landed at Mogadishu and strolled round the town. The Roman Catholic Cathedral there is a fine building. The native village is rather poor and filthy, especially the market place. There is no shed for the market, and natives have to sell their goods on a sandy place. Some of them stick dirty pieces of clothes on pieces of wood as shelters for themselves and their commodities. The Governor’s palace is a fine building. The Sultan or Sheik of Somalis has his residence here.

We left Mogadishu at 5 p.m. on 4th April for Hafun. On board there were always cinema shows in the evenings and music. We were very well treated on board. On the 6th we arrived at Hafun.

On the 9th we arrived at Massawa. It is a fine port belonging to the Italian Eritrea. There is a fine pier, and our steamer was berthed alongside it. An Italian man-of-war was at the harbour. The natives of this town are mixed Arabs, Abyssinians, Danakil, etc. There are nice buildings of stone for Europeans and natives. This is a sign of the wealthiness of the natives of this town. Chief Makwaiya made friends with one wealthy Egyptian who invited him to his house and made him a nice dinner, and gave him a present of a beautiful fez. He offered to pay his expenses to Mecca on pilgrimage, but the Chief was unable to accept his kind offer. When Chief Makwaiya told me this, I was doubtful if the man was genuine and was not one of the slave dealers enticing the Chief to go to Mecca and on the way dispose of him to Arabian slave dealers on the Persian Gulf.

At daybreak on the 14th we arrived at Suez and at 9 a.m. entered the canal. Here we were shown the Sinai Mountains, where Prophet Moses received the tablets containing the ten Commandments.

Ismalia is a fine town. I saw the monument erected to commemorate the defence of the canal during the Great War. On the eastern side of the canal palm groves and cultivated land can be seen. It is said that this country belongs to the Biblical land of Goshen where Patriarch Jacob and his children settled. Here also traces of the ancient canal of the Pharaohs have been discovered. We were shown the supposed track of the Israelites crossing through the Bitter Lakes. El Kantara (the bridge) in the olden days was an important place of caravans between Egypt, Palestine and Syria. It is related that probably Abraham, and his sons spent a few days at El Kantara on their way to Egypt. We arrived at Port Said at 12 midnight. Port Said is a fine port. On this day it was decorated with electric lights in honour of the Egyptian Prime Minister, Sidky Pasha, who visited Port Said on the same day.

This is the western gateway of the canal. At the entrance of the harbour there is the statue of Ferdinand de Lesseps, the builder of the canal. Some of us landed and saw very little of the town, as it was night time. This was the last port of Africa on our journey and we were now sailing through the Mediterranean Sea. Up to this port we enjoyed a fine voyage except for the heat in the Red Sea. The sea after leaving Port Said was rough. Two or three of our colleagues were seasick and unablfe to touch food.

On the 18th we sighted the island of Stromboli which has a volcanic mountain. We could see the smoke issuing from the peak of the volcano. The town is built on the sides of the hill, which looks like a man sitting on the furnace. All of us were amazed to see the inhabitants of this volcanic island living around the volcano with ease and happiness and without any fear of the possible eruption. We were told that vine trees are grown on the island and the soil is very fertile, which may be the inducement to the inhabitants to hazard their living on the volcano.

On the llth at 5.30 p.m. we arrived at Naples. It is a big town and a nice harbour. We could see the volcanic mountain Vesuvius. We were first shown the Cathedral, which is said to have been formerly the temple of Minerva, the Roman Goddess. We saw many fine statues in the public gardens. The buildings are of fine stones and beautiful in appearance. There is a big glass house and in the night it is illuminated with electric lights of multi-colours. This town is very beautiful and dean. The harbour is surrounded with a breakwater. There are electric tramways; horse-carts are still used for carrying passengers and are very cheap. This was the first big town of its size we had seen since we left East Africa.

At 6 a.m. on the 20th we arrived at Livorno. It is a small harbour, which has a canal going into the town. Two submarines, one Italian dreadnought, four British destroyers and about four Italian cruisers were lying in the harbour. A seaplane was flying over the harbour, and a ship was on construction. We did not land to see the town as time was too short.

At 5.30 p.m. the same day we arrived at Genoa. There were many ships in the harbour. I counted nearly two hundred ships at various docks. This is an old Italian port and its merchants are famous. It was the birthplace of Christopher Columbus, the old explorer who discovered Mexico. The Customs House is beautiful. Here we saw many Alpine soldiers having come down for a holiday. Several launches were carrying them for a picnic. On seeing them, Chief Makwaiya was greatly astonished and remarked: ‘At home they ask for men when they are themselves men!’ He meant in Africa they ask for working men to serve them but here they are workers themselves. This sudden exclamation caused me to laugh, and turning to my right I beheld a European from East Africa, who understood Swahili; he also heard Chief Makwaiya’s remarks, and laughed. Apparently the chief had in his mind a picture of a few Europeans in Tanganyika employing African labourers and never doing any handiwork themselves; when he now contrasted it with what he saw at the pier he was amazed. The crowd at the pier was evidently enjoying itself. They had band and music of all sorts and were playing and singing to their hearts’ desire.

Here we had to show our passports. It was the end of our sea voyage between Africa and Europe except for the English Channel. We landed and were motored to the hotel Astoria, where we were not allowed to go out. Tanganyika delegates were lodged in one room and Kenya in the other. The hotel is grand and very nice. We could reach our rooms by the lift.

The next morning we left by train at 9.15 for Paris. All the way we found nice farms and excellent roads. The peasant buildings are small and some of them are very poor. It is within the means of the Africans to build such cottages provided they are properly trained to build them themselves. Some of the roads are narrower than our roads in Africa, and some villages have paths similar to the usual African paths. The size of some of these farms is in most cases the same as that of African farms. Probably the only difference lies in the method of cultivation, which is highly superior to the African’s, and therefore the quantity of crops is comparatively greater in Europe than in Africa, for the same size of a farm. I much admired the terrace cultivation on the Alps mountains; the ground in many cases is stony, but this defect does not preclude the Italian farmers from making a good use of every bit of land. I was thinking of the natives of the western part of the island of Zanzibar in Chwaka area. That part of the island is very stony and the natives have to use wooden hoes in cultivation and planting of their crops. If these people had come to Italy and seen the Alpine peasants they could no doubt improve their method of cultivation on stony land. Farms are dotted about on stony patches on the Alps and snow is flowing right up to the foot of these big mountains. The reproach that Africans are scratching the land to grow a few crops is here disproved. Peasantry cultivation in Europe did not appear to me to be dissimilar to that of the African, so far as the sizes of the farms are concerned. The construction of farm houses is different, but some of the peasant buildings in Europe are not up to the mark that one expected. So there are weak points everywhere in comparison to the degree of civilization. Undoubtedly the farms throughout those parts of Italy and France we passed are excellent in cultivation and planting and are beautiful to look at.

Modane being the frontier of France and Italy, we had to show our passports to the French authorities prior to our entering the French country. The next morning we arrived at the southern station of Paris. It was very cold that morning, and streams of people were pouring into Paris from the towns outside Paris to work. We disembarked and had our breakfast at the station restaurant. We then motored through broad streets of Paris to the northern station. The superb buildings lined on each side of the streets were most imposing and pleasant to the eye. It was a great pity that we could not see much of this famous city.

At 8.25 a.m. our train steamed off the Paris station. The farms of France are very beautiful and are scattered all along the railway line to Boulogne. Pretty farm cottages are built here and there. Fat cows and fowls are to be seen in these farms. The sizes of farms are about the same as in Italy and Africa, the difference as in Italy is in the way they are kept. We all thought it would be a valuable lesson to Africans to come to these countries and see how farms are kept, and acquire an object lesson. One can learn much more by seeing the actual work done than by reading from books.

The English Channel was calm that day, so we had a fine sailing to Folkestone where we arrived at 1.25 p.m. The Folkestone harbour appears to be rather exposed to rough weather during storms. Mr. Mitchell told us that we would find England to be a very clean country and this was perfectly true. We landed and showed our passports to the authorities. Mr. Mitchell through his great kindness arranged for us to travel first class from Folkestone to London. We had our lunch on the train. The English train travels very fast without shaking, and we enjoyed it very much. On the way we saw nice English farms, some of them with best poultry and livestock. Hops, apples, cherries and peaches are grown in these farms. Some of the farms are not big and are similar in size to those of France and Italy, but the agriculture, as in France and Italy, is superior. The soil is fertile and watery. Hedges form boundaries of farms and partitions of farms and pasture-land. Farms are kept thoroughly dean everywhere.

At Victoria Station several gentlemen were present to meet us, also ladies were there. Newspaper men were present. Of those present I knew Mr. and Mrs. McGregor Ross, Mr. and Mrs. Buckley, Mr. Surridge, Archdeacon Owen, Rev. Canon Leakey and Dr. Leakey. We were introduced to Mr. Harris, Secretary of the Anti-Slavery and Aborigines Protection Society, and other ladies and gentlemen. Mr. and Mrs. Fazan were also present.

One thing struck me most at the first appearance, it was brick buildings. In the parts of England where I had been I saw they used bricks more than stones. On inquiry I was told the brick buildings are cheaper, and in that part of England there are not many stones to be found. It is true, on our way from Folkestone to London we did not see many stones, but we saw much chalk at places. What caused me much surprise was, all my informants of England never mentioned to me that bricks were much used there for building purposes, although they are not so much used in Africa. One gentleman told me he did not like brick buildings. In the vicinity of the railway stations in London the buildings are black on account of smoke. This I expected to see because I had read and heard about it. I think it is more in France than in London. The passages in French trains and lavatories are sooty. Third-class carriages in France are no better than third-class carriages of the Tanganyika Railways. Some of the delegates thought the buildings in African towns were cleaner in appearance
than some of the buildings in European towns owing to smoke. In London buildings are too close together and compact. African huts are built separately with open spaces between them. The compactness of buildings in English towns and European towns is probably due to less building spaces available in those towns, which is not the case in Africa, except in few cases of coastal Arab towns like Zanzibar.

To return to my narration of our reception at the Victoria Station. We were very well received and we soon saw that we had many friends or at least people who were sympathetic with our cause. Mr. McGregor Ross I knew in Kenya when I was a boy of fifteen years of age. I served in his department as a tracer in the Drawing Department and afterwards as a store clerk.

We cleared our kit from the luggage room and got ready to start to our new home in London. We were very sorry to part with Mr. Mitchell, who was kind to us all and rendered us every assistance in his power during our whole journey to London. About 5 p.m. we left Victoria Station for Hitherwood, Sydenham Hill. We stayed at the International Hostel. It was very cold at the time and we had to make the best of the new climate. At first it was very trying indeed. I was provided with six blankets yet I felt as if I had no blanket on me. Fortunately we soon got used to the climate and felt quite at home.

Mr. Fazan showed us our rooms. Each one was allotted a separate bedroom, except Chief Makwaya and Makoni shared one room and Headman Mutua and Mr. Ezekiel Apindi shared another. My room was No. 16, this number I had to mark on my clothes and napkins, etc. A big hall was provided for our exclusive use as a sitting-room and dining-room. The building is three-storeyed and very comfortable. There were three Indians staying in the hostel and several Europeans of various nationalities. The other visitors told us that at times Africans from America and other parts of Africa stay at the hostel. We liked the place because the company was friendly and obliging.

Mr. Fazan explained to us the arrangements that had been prepared for us to see various places. The only difficulty was that before leaving Africa we were promised to be paid 21/- per diem for our food plus free accommodation. On this account the Kenya delegates thought the money would suffice for all their expenses. On the way and when we got to England we were informed that the whole matter of our allowance had been altered. The allowance was to be retained by the Government and all our expenses would be defrayed by the Government. As we were unprepared for this it spelt difficulty to some of the delegates who had not made provision for the financial emergency. The situation was explained to Mr, Fazan, who kindly took up the matter with the Colonial Office, and it was arranged to pay us an allowance of 8/- per diem for out-of-pocket expenses and 2/- for theatres and cinemas. The latter amount was kept by Mr. Fazan. As I did not attend any cinema or theatre during the stay at Sydenham this allowance was not expended by me.

It was arranged that we should be accompanied with officers whilst going out as we were strangers and did not know London streets. The London streets are so many and so intricate that it is very difficult for a stranger to find his way to any place. A stranger can get to a place by the aid of a cabman, who can take one to any place if he is told the address. I was informed that no cabman can get a driving licence unless he knows most places in London. It would be easy for any one to lose his way in London, and it would take him a long time to learn. A guide-book can be procured showing all London streets, but even this is of little help, as the streets are so many and intricate like a cobweb. A reverend gentleman who is living in the centre of London told me that he did not know streets of some parts of London.

It was questioned several times by the members of the Committee if Swahili was a suitable lingua franca for East Africans. The Baganda delegate was against the introduction of Swahili language in their country. However, here at Sydenham, Swahili proved its usefulness. First we were six different tribes staying at Hitherwood Sukuma, Ziba, Kilindi, Kikuyu, Kamba and Kavirondo. If it were not for Swahili it would have been impossible for some of us to understand each other except those who understood English, and these were not all. When Uganda delegates arrived we had three more different tribes added to our number Baganda, Banyoro and Basoga. While travelling by the Italian boat and passing through Italy and France we had to speak with Italians and French by gestures as we did not understand their language. I remember after passing Modane a French soldier sat with us in our carriage and was anxious to talk with us; we did not understand French, but thanks to his knowledge of German he could talk with Mwami Lwamugira who understands German. After that a charming French gentleman entered our carriage and we travelled with him up to Lyon with the greatest difficulty we could understand each other a little by gestures, but it was tiresome to draw any meaning from them so we had to drop it and sleep. At Hitherwood Swahili made us great friends and we were happy together there through its knowledge.

There is a ping-pong game at Hitherwood and some of us tried to learn it. We were quite at home there, in the evenings we arranged our seats around the fire and enjoyed our evening conversation discussing what we had seen during the day and what we expected to see the following morning.

Sydenham being situated on a hill was rather colder than the central London. So no sooner had we taken our bath and changed our dresses than we dashed to the sitting-room to warm ourselves by the fire. We usually had our breakfast at this time. At 8 a.m. we were at the station waiting for our London train. The way to the station from Hitherwood is steep and slippery during the rainy season. Near the station at the top on the side of the road we met two men with a harmonium. One of them was playing the harmonium and the other was collecting pennies in his cap given as charity or in exchange for the music which the passers-by were not enjoying. Apparently these men were poor, begging by means of music. In Zanzibar and Mombasa, Arab beggars go about playing cymbals and singing and visit every door begging. I remember when I was in Zanzibar, one of these professional beggars was said to possess about 500/- but was still begging. To him it was a profession and not due to poverty. At Mombasa it was said some of these beggars were very rich and owned shops which were managed by members of their family. At Sydenham we soon got used to these two people and not once or twice we dropped a few pennies into the cap of the collector, until we found it was a daily business.

At the station the train came very fast. It was an electric train and stopped only for a minute. Every one of us had to dash into a carriage near at hand and in about ten minutes we arrived at Victoria Station. Passengers in the train are invariably polite and kind. Railway fares are higher in England than in Africa.

At Victoria station we were shown lavatories and these cost a penny to use. The door of each lavatory has a slot into which a user drops a penny, and sesame! door opens. We have no such system in Africa and I wondered what happened to those who had no penny to drop in. Near the lavatories outside there is a man with his brush ready to clean any boot or shoe that is produced to him on payment of one penny. This is another proof of cleanliness which we lack in Africa.

It was raining heavily on that day so it was not possible for us to see the change of guard, moreover His Majesty was sick at Windsor and we were told there would be no band on that day. So we hurried to the Colonial Office. On the way, for the first time, we saw what a heavy traffic the London streets carry. Thousands and thousands of motor vehicles of all sorts were passing to and fro. Horse carts are also still used in London and other parts of England for carrying loads. Pedestrians walk in thousands on sidewalks.

It is impossible to walk slowly in London as we walk in Africa. We soon found we had to run most of the way or walk very fast. This in itself was a bit of an exerting experience to us. Those Africans who think that England is a place of leisure and pleasure would be surprised to see people hustling and bustling in the London streets. Children, young and old all walk very fast in London. People in England are more active than in Africa and look younger and with more vigour. Mr. Fazan took us from place to place through underground railways, and here again we saw for the first time the moving staircase. Some of the delegates were afraid to step on the moving staircase and did not know whether to walk down or stand still while the staircase was moving, and when they got to the bottom they did not know whether they should jump off the stair-case or walk out, either seemed to them dangerous, as they are a puzzling problem to a newcomer. The underground trains run very fast and stop at stations for only about a second. One day we caught a wrong train owing to its swiftness 5 it hardly gives one time to make inquiries about its destination. All these things and many others were a new experience to us.

The Colonial Office and other Government offices are situated near the Cenotaph in big buildings. At the Cenotaph there were always new wreaths placed. The Trafalgar Square is another junction of streets where innumerable numbers of people pass to and fro. The house of the Prime Minister is opposite the Colonial Office; it is not a big building. Many Prime Ministers have lived in this house. The Buckingham Palace is a majestic and imposing building. The fountains in front of it are very beautiful indeed. I especially liked to see the stone lions with the fountain water passing through their mouths. The whole place is attractive. Every one of us gazed upon the palace with awe and veneration. There was always a large crowd of people coming to see the Buckingham Palace, the change of guards and the movements of guards on duty, I wondered for how long those spectators have been pouring to view this majestic building and for how long will they continue doing it! To an African such a scene is most attractive and appeals more to his veneration and estimation than to other people. He is by nature an adorer.

For the first time we had our lunch at the ‘Lyons’. The place is grand and nice. We were taken up by the lift, and were placed at a nice and clean table. The Lyons Restaurant is always full and thousands and thousands of people have their meals here at one time. There are several storeys to this building. Band was playing and we were enjoying the best meal to the tune of the band. We were served by maid servants who were quick and dexterous at their duties.

That morning we had been at some shops to buy over-coats and some clothes. We first went to the Army and Navy Stores, which is a large shop building. It has a department for every kind of article or group of articles, and we were taken by the lift to various sections of this shop. We also visited Messrs. Austin Reed’s shop to buy suits of clothes. Whilst shopping at Austin Reed’s a newspaper journalist came and saw Chief Koinange and Mr. Ezekiel Apindi selecting their overcoats. He asked them some questions and then went and made a funny report about us in the issue of that day. To our disgust we read the news that evening, most of which was incorrect. Most of the delegates were very sorry to see this, and it was ar- ranged not to speak to newspaper journalists again.

At 2 p.m. we visited St. Thomas’s Hospital. It is a beautiful range of buildings on the Albert Embankment, facing the Houses of Parliament. We were taken to one section where we saw an apparatus for causing fever in order to diagnose certain diseases; some delegates had it tried on them and they felt fever instantly. In the children’s ward, sick children looked very cheerful and healthy. Two picture plates on two sides of the room were presented to the hospital by Emperor Menelik and King Ras Tafari of Abyssinia. Miss Florence Nightingale who founded in June 1860 a school for nurse-training to this hospital came. Now nursing is fully recognized as an integral part of modern medical and surgical treatment. We fully appreciated the most valuable work that was done to humanity in that great hospital. The gentlemen who took us round were very kind to us. The principal doctor in bidding us farewell said he was very pleased to have had such intelligent visitors to show them the hospital. Chief Makwaya on our behalf thanked him and the other gentlemen who were so kind to show us everything of interest. The hospital was a real lesson to us as we had never seen such a big hospital before. The outpatients have a special department for their treatment. It would be many years before we could get anything like a quarter of such a hospital in Africa, especially in the case of African patients. African money spent on such an institution would be worthy of the cause and expenditure. We need more medical services in Africa and proper hospitals with up-to-date appliances for African patients. A beginning has been made and we anticipate the full realization of the worthy object. The system in England is for such hospitals to be maintained by charitable funds, In Africa this would not be possible for generations, as the vast majority of the African people do not understand the benefit of the European medical treatment. They still think that their medicines are good or at least as useful as Europeans’. It is therefore necessary that hospitals should be provided by the Government from the African taxation.

On the morning of the 24th we went to the Mint. The officers of the department kindly met us and took us round. We were shown various processes of coining. Everything here is done methodically and with faultless accuracy within human ability. The Director of the Mint was very pleased to see us and told us that our East African shillings were coined in his department. He said very little silver was used in coining them and asked us to make representation to our Governments to have them recoined and more silver added to them. He said the Nigerians have better coins because their Government paid more for them. We were sorry we could not make such representation to our Governments as suggested by him, although after hearing his advice we would have been very pleased to carry out his advice and thereby obtain better coinage if possible, but the fact that we do not deal in such matters in our countries was explained to him. We bade him good-bye and thanked him for the great kindness shown to us by the officers of his department and himself.

We then went straight to the London Tower, but as we were late by a few minutes, the Governor of the Tower was unable to receive us and show us round himself that day. So it was arranged for his officers to take us round. We were shown the most important historical places in the Tower and ancient armaments, all of which were of much interest to us. What terrified us most was the block and the axe which were used in the olden days for beheading noble traitors, etc. In those days poor people were hanged and nobles were beheaded for treason at the will of the King. The armaments started from bows and arrows, the most primitive weapons of the people of the world, and then axes and the first primitive guns. In those days the Europeans were using the same kind of weapons as the majority of the African people of our days. The sight of these weapons instantly brought to our mind the common origin of humanity. We appreciated the progress made by the European nations from bows and arrows to big guns, aircraft and submarines; all these deadly weapons of today have had their humble origin. When one leaves the Tower and goes straight to Portsmouth and Woolwich, he sees what a vast progress has been made in the art of armaments by the English nation. It would be impossible otherwise to understand the change or even to believe it.

The next item was to see crowns, sceptres, swords, etc. of His Majesty the King and crowns of Her Majesty the Queen and H.R.H. the Prince of Wales. The great and famous diamond ‘Koh-i-noor’ is also there, and various medals and brilliant crosses. The whole place is resplendent with the lustre and brilliancy of these priceless jewels. Several visitors were there to see them.

We were shown the place where two young princes were thrown to the ground from the Tower by order of the King in the olden days. The story is horrible and very sad to hear. We thanked the officers and walked to the Lyons for lunch.

At 2 p.m. we went to the Tower Pier and embarked on board S.S. St. Katharine, a fine steamer! Before we reached the Tower Bridge, the bridge was raised mechanically and we passed through under it.

It was through the great kindness of the Port of London Authority that we were invited to see these great docks; and the gentlemen who took us round hy this steamer were very kind to us.

At 4.15 p.m. we had tea in the fine saloon on board. Our head host then delivered a nice address to us, in which he said he hoped that our country would send more goods to the London Port to the prosperity of both countries. He explained to us what a big port London is and that it handles a very large volume of cargo. This we saw ourselves with our own eyes and could not compare it with anything we had seen befor.e. Chief Makwaya replied to him on our behalf and thanked him most highly for the very great kindness they had done to us and the most wonderful view we had had of the greatest port in the world.

It really gave us the true idea of the greatness of London and the huge bulk of cargo it handled. Before us was one length of port the end of which we could not see. We saw docks everywhere. This was one of the most magnificent scenes we saw and we were much pleased with it. We thanked the authorities very highly for their unspeakable kindness to us.

On the 25th April we travelled by two cabs to Wembley to see the Cup Final Football Match. The Wembley Stadium is a big building like a Roman Amphitheatre. On the way we found many cars, charabancs, etc., proceeding to Wembley. We were informed that some of these people had arrived the day before especially to see the match, and had travelled very long distances for the purpose. Some of them wore ribbons of the team to which they belonged. On our arrival at Wembley we found the car-parking place was full of cars, etc., and I thought it would be very difficult for us to find our cars again at the end of the match; so I looked round for some mark that would enable me to tell where our cars were parked. Multitudes of people were pouring into the Stadium, and we had to keep very close together in order not to lose sight of each other. Our seats were on the third row from the bottom. The first box was for Their Majesties, who did not come that day owing to His Majesty’s illness. The second box was for the principal members of the Match or Association Football and distinguished personages, the third was ours. So we had a very fine view of the football ground before us. Our seats were said to be very expensive. We were very well received by a gentleman belonging to the Association, who afterwards invited us to tea. He was a distinguished person. In the second box before us there sat H.R.H. the Duke of Gloucester, who afterwards presented the cup, the Prime Minister, Mr. Ramsay MacDonald, Mr. Baldwin and other high personages. The match was between Birmingham and West Bromwich Albion teams. Bands of H.M. Irish. Guards and H.M. Welsh Guards were playing. First there was Community Singing. The reader will realize what a huge singing it was when he is informed that ninety-five thousand people were present at the Stadium and all these people had to sing at one time. The following songs were sung: 1. Daisy Bell, 2. John Brown’s body, 3. Loch Lomond, 4. Pack up your troubles, 5. Love’s old sweet song, 6. Cock Robin, 7. John Peel, 8. Poor old Joe, 9. The British Grenadiers (Whistle), 10. Annie Laurie, 11. The man that broke the Bank at Monte Carlo, 12. Abide with me.

The last is a church hymn. An African reader will be interested to know that in England in almost every ceremony the Church has a place and religion comes first. In Africa it is difficult to understand this and what religion is to people in England.

The players were marched to the ground with both bands playing in front of them. The day was not fine. It was very cold and was drizzling. So the football ground was very slippery. But the game was very fine and so interesting that we hardly felt the cold and its bite. Faces of spectators around the stadium could not be recognized. We could only see black spots which represented the heads. How wonderful it was, ninety-five thousand people crowding together without a single person creating a disturbance! This would have been impossible in Africa. Such a crowd had never been seen by us all our lives, and the reader can imagine what was in our minds when we saw it. The population present was equal to that of the whole of the Tanga District, the place where I am living. The contesting teams got one goal each, and spectators were anxious to know as to who would win. When each goal was scored the crowd was excited, some with joy and some apparently with disgust and some were throwing their caps up. As I am an ex-football player, I could not understand why I impulsively wished the Birmingham team to win. At last the Birmingham team was beaten by two goals to one and I was sorry. Chief Koinange as well as every delegate was interested in the game. The West Bromwich Albion team was marched with band to H.R.H. the Duke of Gloucester, and to the rejoicing of all present triumphantly received the glorious cup, and each player shook hands with the Prince. The Birmingham team came next to shake hands with the Prince and the game ended.

Few players were hurt and doctors were ready to attend to them. Of the spectators only one person collapsed and was carried by the ambulance. In about ten minutes all seats were vacated without any disturbance or quarrel. Our kind host took us downstairs to have tea. There were many people taking their tea in the room which was completely full up. After tea we left to find our cars. The marvelous thing was that the whole play had been reported by the newspapers and circulated just as we left the Stadium. The whole thing was done in a twinkle of an eye like a magic. It would be inpossible to explain this to Africans because they would not believe it. There is nothing to compare it with in Africa, hence the incredulity natural in the African mind. My colleagues could not understand how it was done when they bought the paper containing the news at the Victoria Station after we had left the Stadium the same evening ten minutes after the match. If the story had been related to us without seeing the paper, no doubt we would not have believed it. While the play was going on, there were aeroplanes hovering above the football ground reporting on the game. These airplanes could stop still in the air without moving about.

Outside the Stadium not one of us could tell where our cabs were standing. Motor vehicles were so congested that we entirely lost the situation of our cars. It soon flashed into my mind that I had a mark showing the direction in which our cars were situated, I looked for the mark and found it and looking opposite the mark I saw our driver beckoning to us. We gladly got into our cars and drove to the Victoria Station, but the speed of our cars as well as of all other cars was very slow owing to the density of cars. It would have been quicker to walk on foot than driving in a car. The kindness we received from the gentleman of the Association is unspeakable and Chief Koinange thanked him much on our behalf.

On Sunday 26th April at 1 1 a.m. we attended the morning service at St. Stephen’s, Sydenham Hill. We could easily detect that in church there were more women than men. I saw this in all churches I attended in England and also in Naples at the two churches we entered. On my inquiries I received confirmation of my experience. Some think owing to much work and other reasons fewer men go to church than women. Others think that it is because there are more women than men in England women exceed men in England by two million women. Others thought it was due to men taking a true interest in church that those few who attended churches did so with more real interest and belief than those who did before out of custom. Materialism may have something to do with it. In Africa it is the reverse: more men go to church than women. Africans are naturally religious. It is true, the old England was more religious than the present, but religion still holds a very high place in England. We saw many churches wherever we went, I should reckon a church after every five minutes, but I was told some of these churches are empty, due partly I think to their great numbers. Some people told me that the lack of true interest in the parish work accounted partly for this. Where much interest is taken the church is full. In some places the working classes have thought they were not wanted in church to mix up with high-class people.

Baganda, Banyoro and Basoga delegates arrived that evening with Mr. Bruton, District Commissioner of Uganda from Africa. Preparations were made to meet the Secretary of State for the Colonies the next day.

At 8 a.m., 27th April, we were all ready to start for London. Each one of us put on his best dress, which some of the papers in London called ‘immaculate.’ The Uganda delegates wore their robes. At 10 a.m. sharp we arrived at the Colonial Office and at 10.30 we were presented before the Secretary of State for the Colonies, Lord Passfield, in the State Room of the Colonial Office. The delegates of each country were lined up together and our Native Commissioners stood on one side to the right. Messrs. Maxwell of Kenya, Mitchell of Tanganyika and Bruton of Uganda. Mr. Fazan who acted as an interpreter stood on the left. Together with the Secretary of State for the Colonies were Dr. Drummond Shiels, Under-Secretary of State, and Mr. Bottomley of the Colonial Office there were also other gentlemen present whose names I do not know. Each one of us shook hands with the Secretary of State in the order of seniority.

Lord Passfield then read the following speech:

Chiefs and Counsellors, I am very glad to welcome you today in this room which is, as it were, the centre of the administration of the great Colonial Empire of the King. Here it is that for many years have worked the Secretaries of State for the Colonies the statesmen, that is, who have been entrusted with the seals of the Colonial Department (you see them there before you) by the Great Queen Victoria, by her illustrious son King Edward VII and by her illustrious grand-son King George V, who rules us today.

This is an historic occasion. Never before have representatives of the native population in East Africa been gathered together in this room. Khama, the famous Chief of the Barxiangwato, has been received here; only last year, Tshekedi, his son, was received here; and other native Chiefs from various parts of Africa have been received here. But it is the first time that there has been occasion for a Secretary of State to receive here natives of Kenya and Tanganyika and Uganda, and so it gives me special pleasure to extend to you, the representatives of more than ten million Africans, a warm greeting on your arrival in London after your long journey from East Africa.

The immediate purpose of your coming here is to give evidence, on behalf of the peoples whom you represent, before the Committee, composed of members of the House of Lords and House of Commons, which is considering the question of linking together more closely the administration of Kenya, Uganda and Tanganyika. It is very fitting that when important and far-reaching changes in the political administration of your countries are under consideration you should have the opportunity to state the views of the African people resident in those countries. I do not yet know what you may have to tell the Committee. But I would say this to you: When you speak, speak fearlessly and say the things which are in your hearts. Your Officers here, who will be with you when the Committee – wishes to hear you, will guide you to speak, and upon all these matters I say to you again that you must tell the Committee exactly what you and the native peoples of East Africa are thinking. Your selection for this important task means for you a great honour. But you cannot have great honor without great responsibility also. If the life blood of a body fails, the body dies. So, if you fail to fulfil the trust which your selection imposes upon you, the honour of that selection becomes as dust….

I could speak to you at length on many things, both here and in East Africa, but this is not the time or place to do so; and I will make an end of speaking by repeating my words of welcome and by asking you on your return to take to all the native peoples of East Africa a message of greeting and well-wishing from myself and all those who, under His Majesty the King, are specially entrusted with the care of the interests of East Africa. I have spoken.

Headman James Mutua read the reply of Chief Koinange on behalf of the Kenya delegates. The following is the English translation of his reply:

We rejoice at our arrival here and give thanks to the Government of His Majesty the King for having required our presence. We are grateful for the manner in which we have been received, and for the opportunity which has been granted to us of presenting ourselves before you, and we know that it is as though we should see His Majesty the King. For you have been appointed to this high position by His Majesty, and we, who are of small account, cannot expect such honour as to present our salutation to him in person. We know the unceasing care which he displays in the protection of his subjects, and he has made you his right hand that you may direct the courses of the countries of his Empire in which we live. We pray God to grant His Majesty health and great prosperity.

Chief Serwano Kulubya replied in English on behalf of the Uganda delegates:

My Lord. On behalf of the Uganda delegates and that of myself, I humbly beg to express first and foremost our unswerving loyalty to His Majesty King George, also our untold appreciation of the kind welcome which has been extended to us on our arrival in this country, and also for this reception. Above all, My Lord, we would wish to state how the Native Governments we represent received with the greatest appreciation your kind invitation to send to this country their delegates to give evidence in this burning question of the proposed Closer Union for the East African Dependencies. This invitation will always remain in our minds as a token to prove to us the British FairPlay and Justice…

Sultan Makwaiya read in Kiswahili the reply of the Tanganyika delegates. The following is its English translation:

We who are the representatives of the natives of Tanganyika Territory, give you our sincere thanks for having invited us to this interview, and for having called us to England to give evidence on behalf of our brothers in Tanganyika. For this is the first time that natives from East Africa have been summoned to the councils of those honorable houses, the House of Lords and the House of Commons, to speak on their own behalf. Neither ourselves nor our brothers nor our sons will ever forget the goodness of the British Government in this matter and it will be remembered for ever as long as the history of the African people endures… May Almighty God bless His Majesty and his Empire, and may God’s blessing attend every endeavour which you undertake. We are your humble servants.

All these speeches were interpreted by Mr. Fazan into Swahili and English. After the delivery of the speeches the Secretary of State for the Colonies bade us ‘Good-bye in Kiswahili ‘Kwaherini’ and we shook hands with him again and left the State Room in the same order. It was a very solemn reception and everything was done with the highest dignity and respect. I had never been to such an impressive ceremony. The room is grand and stately and inculcated in our minds the highest respect for the British Government.

As Mr. Fazan told us on the day of our arrival, the British Government had decided to accord us the respect of the ten million Africans whom we represented, and we highly appreciated this honour on behalf of our brothers. It must be admitted that we were treated with the greatest respect and honour, so much so that we felt that we had been as if by a miracle transported to another world. It is really impossible for any of us to say how we thank the British Government and all those who participated in making our visit in England an enjoyable one. We therefore commend to Almighty God to bless them all for all they did for us and grant everlasting prosperity to the British reign of Justice and Fairplay.

To compare what we have seen in England and how we were treated is well-nigh impossible. We made many friends and found the truth for ourselves that we have friends in all political parties: Conservatives, Labour and Liberals, and all sections of the communities in England and the church. We had an opportunity to see things for ourselves which we could not otherwise have understood. When I arrived in Africa I told all those I saw, ‘It is impossible for me to relate exactly what we have seen and how we have been treated because you would not believe me, as there is nothing to compare it with in Africa; but if you have money, take a trip to England and see things for yourselves.’ Some replied: ‘We know these people are very good in their own country.’ Some people thought we were so treated because we represented ten million Africans and it was even suggested to us that the respect

we received was not meant for us but the ten million Africans we represented. That is true. But I was blessed with the opportunity of gauging things for myself after my colleagues had left and when I was no more representing ten million Africans, and I ascertained that the treatment of good Africans in England is above reproach. The atmosphere in England is such as to make a wide opening for an African who wishes to improve himself thoroughly in every branch of knowledge, provided he possesses sufficient funds for his travelling and maintenance expenses while in England.

It is a fact that coloured people are not admitted in some hotels, etc., in London, but I was given a confirmed reason for it. I am glad to say I did not experience it and I was lucky for having been well treated wherever I went. Padre Dyson told me one day on my return from Blackheath that the attendant of a certain restaurant where we usually had our meals asked him during my absence where I had been and thought I was a welcome customer to their restaurant. Good and respectable Africans are welcome in most places. Probably the crux of the whole matter is, it is difficult to differentiate between Africans, but the atmosphere may change in future. Outside London there is not much of this; Africans are welcome everywhere according to the information I received. London has a cosmopolitan population, and no doubt people with racial prejudices from other countries are there in great numbers and this may account for infiltration of the system of racialism there. However it is consoling for the Africans to know that there are some places where they can be received and these places are more comfortable for them than those others where their presence is not tolerated, I would advise Africans to stay at places where they are required and not to thrust their presence where they are not required. It is happier for them to be in congenial places. In trains, omnibuses, etc., there is no colour prejudice. On the whole one can safely say that English people in England are very respectful and kind. To me this seems to be the reason why they rule one-third of the world today they deserve it and are worthy of it. Several Europeans who are not English, and Africans, agreed with me on this. The character of the majority of the English people in England is excellent and incomparable.

In the afternoon at 5 p.m. we visited the Friends’ Society’s House where we had been invited to tea. We found many European and African friends awaiting for us, and we were very well received. The Society has always been rich in the zeal of its members for social reform, and Friends were in the forefront of the long campaign against slavery. In the meetings of the Society women equally with men may address the Friends. They have their Mission at Pemba. After we had been shown round we were taken to tea in a big hall and were introduced to several friends. Here I met Rev. Dyson, priest in charge of the English church at Tanga. It was a very happy gathering. Mr. Roden Buxton addressed us and in his speech assured us that we have many friends in England and that all those who were present were friends of the Africans. His father did much work towards the abolition of slavery in Africa and elsewhere and is buried in the Westminster Abbey in honour of his noble work. Mrs. McGregor Ross also addressed us and said she was sorry to see we did not bring our wives with us to England and hoped the next time we went to England we would take them with us in order that they might gain the experience which we were gaining during the trip. Rev. Andrews from South Africa gave us a message from our brothers in South Africa who were very glad to hear that we had gone to England to speak for our people. It was simply by a coincidence that we met in England.

Chief Serwano Kulubya replied to the speeches in few words and I spoke on behalf of Chief Makwaya and Tanganyika delegates. Several persons present came and told me afterwards that I had spoken well about co-operation between Europeans and Africans. It really came out of my heart. The meeting then ended and we left with the most sincere feelings in our hearts of the great and most wonderful kindness of those present. The impression made on my mind was that they felt more for us than we did for our own selves, and they are true and real friends. Experience that an African gains in forty years in Africa is not equal to one month’s experience in England.

At 10.50 a.m. Tuesday, 28th April, Kenya delegates appeared before the Joint Committee on Closer Union of East African Territories, to give evidence. Uganda and Tanganyika natives were present to listen to the evidence. Several Europeans were present and the King’s Robing Room was full of spectators.

Dr. Leakey interpreted for Chief Koinange and Headman Mutua, the latter understands English but he thought it safer for him to speak in his African tongue, although he did not speak in vernacular. Having a thorough command of the Kikuyu language, he spoke in Kikuyu, a language which Dr. Leakey speaks and understands like a Kikuyu. The Ven. Archdeacon Owen interpreted for Mr. Ezekiel Apindi, who also understands English. The Committee sat in the King’s Robing Room in the House of Lords.

As is well known, this was the first time East Africans gave evidence before the honourable members of the Houses of Lords and Commons. Many people thought that the delegates would be nervous and afraid to speak. One African before our leaving Africa ventured to write in the African Standard that when the delegates reached the Houses of Parliament they would be so frightened and trembling that they would be unable to utter even a word. He therefore suggested that all delegates should meet at Mombasa and be put on speech-making test prior to their selection to proceed to England as fit representatives. Happily for all, this was unnecessary and was not done, and the reverse took place in the King’s Robing Room, for the delegates could speak more than they do in their own country and with ease and without fear or fright. The delegates were in preparation from Africa for the important work before them. Some of us thought that the sight-seeing should have been postponed until the evidence had been given. But I am glad to say the sightseeing programe did not make any difference to our preparation. The African delegates did their duty without fear.

Chief Koinange who does not understand English at all spoke with vigour and tact. He is a straightforward and steadfast Christian and I am compelled to admit that he is one of the best African chiefs. He was anxious to do his duty and help his people and I saw him at times so worried about it that he thought he was not doing enough for his people. One English gentleman from Africa told me one day that Chief Koinange has got brain. One of the Arab delegates told me he never thought the Kenya delegates would be able to speak what they spoke, and quoted an African proverb: ‘Those you think would not do the job are the very ones who would do it well, and those you think would do it are the ones who would fail.’ The London papers also admired the way the delegates gave their evidence, and mentioned that they were not frightened by the big buildings of the Houses of Parliament.

It is true the duty before the delegates was heavy, but undoubtedly they knew what it meant to them and what they and their people wanted. It was evident that the English public did not know what was actually happening in East Africa and what the African point of view on such matters was.

Up till now the African has not been given a chance or an opportunity to speak for himself or to air his feelings. Many people think the African is so childish that he cannot even open his mouth and say whether he is well or not. To some of us it seems that even a child can speak and parents are always anxious to hear his voice and his requests. Those gentlemen who wisely planned to get Africans to England to speak before the Joint Committee have done the most noble service to the African community. The African cannot claim as yet that he can champion his cause as efficiently as the best Europeans, but he can justly claim the privilege for an opportunity for his voice to be heard and his views to be sought where matters concern his vital interests. Nobody knows the African’s requirements better than himself. His mode of living, his customs and habits are peculiar to himself and require a thorough study. In order to understand an African as he actually is, it needs one to live like him, with him, and be intimate with him, which is very difficult. The Africans have a proverb which says: ‘No one feels the bite of a bug on a bedstead except he who lies on it.’ To seek the opinion of the Africans on matters concerning them is to render them the best service. The African may be suffering through misunderstanding and there is no way of removing the misunderstanding except by consulting him in every way.

We were all very pleased to find that we were lucky in deed to have as a chairman the Noble Lord Stanley of Alderley. His Lordship was very just and sympathetic. He allowed the African delegates every opportunity to speak out what they had in their minds and those of people whom they represented. In him the true British justice is symbolized. His Lordship’s attitude to the African delegates gave them more courage in the delivery of their evidence. The honourable members of Committee were also kind and reasonable in putting their questions to the African delegates. We were surprised at first to find that fewer questions were put to the Kenya delegates than we expected would be the case. My curiosity impelled me to ask one of the members whether they thought the evidence given by the Kenya delegates was so unimportant or outside the range of the Committee’s terms that they did not think it worth while to ask questions. Apparently this was not the case, and when we gave evidence we were so inundated with questions that we thought the onslaught was meant for us.

In the afternoon the Kenya delegates returned to the King’s Robing Room to finish their evidence. Uganda and Tanganyika delegates were taken by Mr. Charleton to be shown the Houses of Parliament. We could not go into the House of Lords as the Noble Lords were sitting at the time. The Speaker proceeding to the House of Commons with the Chaplain and Sergeants-at-arms was very impressive indeed. We saw the historical Westminster Hall.

In the evening we were invited to tea by Lord Henry Cavendish Bentinck at his house. Lord Passfield, Lord Stanley of Alderley, Lord Olivier, Lord Lugard and other distinguished gentlemen were present. Lady Cavendish Bentinck was our hostess 5 and we were very well received. The party was excellent and we enjoyed it exceedingly. I sat next to Lord Stanley of Alderley, and his Lordship was kind to us and talked freely with us. He asked me how long the Tanganyika delegates would want to deliver their evidence. I told him that it would be difficult to say then as we did not know the number of questions that would be put to us. I requested him to allow us sufficient time to give our evidence and not to rule out our evidence, otherwise it would be difficult for us to state our evidence clearly. He agreed and said it was for the same reason he had allowed the Kenya delegates to state much which was outside the terms of the Committee. He understood our difficulties quite well and was very sympathetic. Lady Cavendish Bentinck came and asked me to speak with her and we talked briefly on the question of women. I had the honor of being introduced to Lord Passfield and exchanged a few words with him. Nothing encouraged and inspirited us so much as this meeting with the noble lady and gentlemen of the highest society in England, and we owe them a great debt of gratitude for this. Every one of us had an opportunity of talking with them. The party broke up at about 6 p.m.

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To be continued…

This text can be found in full at the Internet Archive Project.

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